Lipstick Application

Red Lips!-Application & Staying Power

1.) In this photo, Janey has primed my lips by lightly brushing concealer over the entire mouth and then applying MAC Prep & Prime for lips. Make sure to take the primer slightly outside of the lip to help avoid bleeding of the lipstick. You can also use a small amount of your foundation and top it off with a clear, thick lip balm. (If you use a clear lip gloss, or balm that is slightly glossy, the lip pencil and lip stick will not adhere properly). This also makes sure that the colour of the lip stick pencil does not interfere with your natural lip colour. (Have you ever bought a lip stick and then tried it on at home and it looks terrible?...That is why).

2.) Next, fill in lips with a lip pencil. Start by filling in the centre and moving outwards. Line the "rim" of your lips in short feathered motions. It is imperative that your pencil is sharp when you are lining the outer areas of the lip.

3.) It doesn't have to be perfect. Remember, this step ensures that your lip colour won't fade while you're wearing it.

4.) Use a lip brush to apply a small amount of the lip stick on lips. As always, less is more and you can always build on the colour. Evenly spread over lips. 

5.) To make the colour really pop out and correct any imperfections made when applying the lipstick, dip a brush into the concealer used to fade out the lip, and trace around the outside of lips. You can then set with powder to avoid bleeding of the lipstick.

6.) Red lips are fun! But remember to not overdue it on the rest of your makeup so the attention can be brought to your lovely lips.

More Tips & Tricks 

-For extra staying power, take a tissue and rip it in half. By this, I mean that every tissue is made of two very thin tissues. For this trick, you only need one very thin layer. Place the extra thin tissue on top of your lips. Dip a powder brush into some loose power or baby powder, and lightly dust your lips with the tissue acting as a barrier.

-Red lips really bring out your teeth, which is the perfect time to show off your pearly whites! For easy whitening, try Crest White Strips. Instead of using them once a day, try using them only once every other week so that your teeth don't become overly sensitive

-Drink water to keep your lips hydrated 

Michael Morrison

I would like to take the time to highlight an amazing up and coming photographer that I truly feel everyone needs to be watching for.

After feeling unsatisfied with his choice to do '3D Character and Environmental Modelling for Video Games and Movies' at ACAD, Michael always looked forward to enrolling in the optional photography class - he immediately fell in love and knew this was his calling and career.
Fascinated by vanity, Morrison's images always capture an essence of either the beauty or visual intrigue he sees in his subject. He is infatuated with perfection and the requirements of such an industry; fashion and beauty, never ceasing to push the limits of the medium and the creative interpretation of his ideas.
Inspired by the transcendent images of the past, produced by photography’s foremost, Michael contends to contribute to his trade and art in a similar but contemporary manner. Morrison explores cultural poles frequently found within society and how they are communicated visually.
By experimenting with beauty and ugliness, tranquility and turmoil, voyeurism and confrontation, notions of what is considered appropriate and inappropriate, Morrison challenges his viewers to explore cultural norms and ideals through juxtaposition, colour, irony, and strong visual narration.
 
Michael is currently living and working in New York City and will be launching a new website with all new content in the next few months; for now we can check out his current website and appreciate his divine talent at http://www.michaelmorrisonphotography.com/

Expiration Dates

When it comes to cosmetics, knowing when its time to toss them can be tricky. It is extremely important not to use any cosmetic after its expiration date because it can cause a whole world of problems for your skin! Here are a couple of ways to tell if it's time to say goodbye:

If the colour, smell or texture isn't like it used to be - throw it out (if it is a MAC product you can save it and once you obtain 6, use it towards the wonderful recycling program they offer).

Another "obvious" way to tell is to look at the bottom, back or box of the product and search for what looks like a little container with a number inside, that number will tell you the amount of months a product is good for. Look closely - the little container is definitely little.

One of my tips is to write on the product container what date you bought the product and that way you will always know how long it has been since you made the purchase. Also note that most products don't start expiring until they have been opened.

Foundation-Flawless Skin

Flawless Skin 

One of the most sought after questions for many women; How do you buy the right foundation? This is a very difficult thing to do as there are many factors to consider, including skin type, the type of coverage you are looking for and budget. My professional opinion is to invest in a foundation as it is the base for all the makeup you apply after.
When testing the product, apply it along your jaw line and neck to see if it properly matches your skin. (Facial skin tends to be slightly lighter than the skin on your hand). 

My advice is wait a couple hours to see if this product suits your skin. Sometimes, foundation "oxidizes"  which means that the product isn't suitable for your skin type (oily or dry). This is why foundation often looks good when you first apply it until you get a look in a bright mirror and realize it is not the right colour. 

Lastly, foundation has a shelf life of one year. If you're using an old foundation, it will again oxidize on your skin, giving your skin an orangey look. 

Our Favorite Foundations 

For Oily/Combination Skin: Smash Box Oil Free Foundation with SPF 15-Build-able Coverage

For Dry Skin: Laura Mercier Creme Foundation-Medium to Heavy Coverage 

Application

1.) Start with clean skin; Cleansed, Toned, Moisturized.

2.) Apply a silicone based primer. This acts as a barrier between your makeup and your skin and also seals in your moisturizer. Janey prefers to apply primer with a foundation brush and I prefer to apply it with my hands. Begin applying your foundation. Start by applying a dime size amount. Less is more, and you can always build up on the coverage. 

Start in the T-zone and work outwards to spread the product and then downwards to blend. Blending downwards gives the foundation a natural look as it is going along the "grain" with your natural hairs. 

Again, Janey prefers to use a foundation brush while I prefer disposable triangle sponges. 

3.) After you've applied the foundation to your liking, spot conceal any trouble spots (blemishes or dark circles). Set the foundation with a loose powder or bronzer. If you have dry skin, only apply loose powder to your T-Zone or skin this step all together. 

More Tips & Tricks

-To create a sheer finish, slightly dampen your foundation brush or sponge when applying foundation

-To create a tinted moisturizer, simply mix foundation with your daily moisturizer (great for when you're on vacation)

-To create a natural glow, mix foundation with a few drops of an illuminator.

Try Stila's All Over Shimmer Liquid Luminizer

-Make sure you wash your makeup off at night to allow your skin to breath and rejuvenate

If you have anymore questions, please don't hesitate to post a comment or email us.

Fashionsign Magazine

Yay! A new Calgary based Fashion magazine. First issue just published. 

http://fashionsignmag.com/

Fashionsign Magazine on Facebook

The Difficult Kind

It's hard to be a woman. This sentence is probably the greatest understatement I'll ever make, but the truth behind it can be proven through history and time. Todays society offers us so much opportunity, but the pressures that are placed on women's shoulders are overwhelming, and at times, unbearable. When I write a post, I am taking time to reflect on the things in my life that I enjoy, but are not always a priority. Music, fashion, makeup, and art are all faucets of inspiration for Janey and I, as we hope they are for our followers. I believe for us women to be successful, it is important to tune in to what inspires us so we can lead happier and healthier lives. Do not give in to societies pressures, but instead create your own path. Creativity breeds creativity. Take time out of your busy schedule to indulge in the things that make you feel happy. Create balance in your life by pursuing your strengths and passions.

But most of all, allow yourself to be free from perceived pressures. It's your life!

-A

Fix +

As you all might have guessed - Anna and myself have been a little MIA. We both have been living busy and hectic lives for the past few weeks so we would like to send you all our sincerest apologies for the lack of posts.

I wanted to take this time to tell you all about a wonderful product called Fix +. You can purchase it at MAC and it is an absolute must for any makeup kit! I was introduced to this wonderful creation about 5 years ago when my future manager at MAC did a makeup application for me and from that moment I vowed to never be without.

The main purpose to this spray is to add radiance and finish your makeup but it can do oh so much more! Infused with green tea, chamomile, cucumber and the scent of sugi it calms the skin. Here are some of my favorite uses for this spritz:

After applying your makeup, hold the bottle about 10 inches away and spray your entire face. This will set your makeup and help prevent any smudging; just make sure you close your mouth and eyes before spraying :)

If you have applied your makeup in the morning and really don't feel like re doing it all before your big date or night out with the girls, spritz your entire face again and your makeup will look brand new, leaving your skin looking completely refreshed.

Use with mineral makeup to add a more bold and dramatic look. MAC offers a variety of mineral products for your face and eyes so try wetting your makeup brush with some Fix +, dip into your shadow and notice the difference in colour and vividness.

Use as a toner! Because of the wonderful ingredients used, Fix + makes a fantastic hydrating toner.

Remove static from clothing and hair. Hold the bottle about 10 or more inches from the area needing a little less static and go to town with it.

You can also leave Fix + in the fridge for those hot days - so refreshing!

There is so much more you can do with this product; find out for yourself what you love about it and let us know! You won't be disappointed.

Appointments & Consultations

Hi everyone!

We are starting to receive appointments for the spring already! Be sure to book us before it gets too full - weddings, graduation, photo shoots, special events and the list goes on! We can also do group rates for graduations and special events; email any inquiries to crossbonestyles@gmail.com

Have a wonderful day,

J&A

Asian Makeup

Ask and you shall receive.

In my personal opinion - Asian faces are one of the greatest canvas' you will get to work on. Often having a beautiful tone and texture, makeup almost "melts" onto the skin creating a stunning overall look. Here are a few tips and tricks to use:

When matching foundation it is important to take into consideration that Asian skin often has a yellow undertone so be careful to match shades to the neck as well as face. Swatch the foundation on the jawline and look into a mirror using as much natural light as you possibly can to avoid having the makeup match indoors and look too sallow outdoors (use this trick when swatching makeup for anyone, including yourself; natural light is best). Picking out foundation can sometimes be time consuming but be open to this since rushing the process can affect the final look making your work come off sloppy and untrained.

Applying eye makeup to Asian eyes is really no different then any other eye but if you are hoping to make the eye appear larger then start by applying a primer/magnet to the lid followed by a light frosted shadow. Using  shadows that are light in colour and have a sheen will add "lift" to the brow bone.
With a blending brush begin to dust on a darker shadow on the outer corner of the lid starting at the lash line and slowly diffusing the colour upwards with small circular motions, I find using a brush like the number 224 from MAC does an excellent job with this. Diffuse colour no more then slightly above the brow bone.
Be sure to tap off your brush after every dip of eyeshadow to prevent colour from falling onto your face. After you have shaded the outer corner, line the lash line with a dark shadow using an angle brush - this will make your lashes appear thicker.
To open the eye up even further, add a flesh coloured eyeliner to the waterline (the interior part of the lower lid). You will need a steady hand for this and it may tickle so only use this step if you are absolutely confident in your ability.
Curl the lashes and apply a mascara to the outer lashes to help lift the eye. I have heard of people heating their lash curler with a hair dryer if their lashes aren't cooperating but I would not advise this; there is a chance you could seriously harm yourself if the curler gets too hot.
Never curl your lashes after applying mascara as this can tear them out!

If you find your lashes are too short then try applying some false lashes. Individual lashes look very soft and natural. They can also be a little time consuming if not familiar. My favorite natural lashes to use for length and a touch of thickness are number's 33 and 31 from MAC (don't be thrown off by the look of the 33's - they are amazing and don't look fake at all).

I hope this helps and don't hesitate to make suggestions for future entries!

J&A

Coco + Violet

Coco+Violet is a Calgary fashion treasure located on trendy 4th Ave. A one of a kind boutique, C+V carries brands like Current/Elliot, Rebecca Taylor, Paige, and Madison Marcus (just to name a few). With a perfect mixture of high-end denim, unique dresses and quality pieces, you'll be sure to to walk away feeling inspired, and hopefully with a bag full of in-season goodies.

-J&A

cocoandviolet.com

Shadows that compliment.

If applied properly, anyone can wear any shade of shadow they desire but there are certain shades that will compliment your eye colour better then others.

The best way to determine which shades to use with your client's or your own eye colour is by referring to a colour wheel. Choose which eye colour you have and then look directly across to see which colour will compliment you, for example; blue is complimented by orange, green is complimented by red, violet by yellow etc. No one has a pure yellow iris so you will have to look a little further into the colour wheel to determine the complimentary colour for eyes such as hazel and brown. Brown eyes usually have a warm tone which can be viewed as having an orange, red or red-orange accent. Hazel eyes tend to have more green or yellow tones to them so you would look at your chart, determine which shade is more prominent and then look at the colour across to determine the complimentary shade. You may also choose shades that are not located directly across but beside the complimentary colour.

Do not feel that since you have blue eyes you must wear orange shades - these are just guidelines and looking for shadows with a tint of orange will be beneficial to bringing out your eyes. Blue eyes look great with shades of brown but if you are looking to have fun with colour then experiment with brighter tones.

Here are some suggestions using shadows from MAC:

Green Eyes:
Sketch, Star Violet, Mythology, Trax, Haux, Seedy Pearl, Coppering.

Blue Eyes:
Rule, Amber Lights, Naked Lunch, Saffron, Bronze, Wedge, Sable, Antiqued.

Hazel Eyes:
Vibrant Grape, Beauty Marked, Satellite Dream, Idol Eyes, Nocturnelle, Fig. 1.

Brown Eyes:
Plumage, Winkle, Contrast, Tilt, Deep Truth, Parfait Amour, Print, Shimmermoss.

There are an abundance of shades you can choose from and don't let the colour wheel stop you from trying out other shades, these were just a few that go hand in hand with the complimentary colours we talked about!

Feedback.

Hey everyone,

We hope you are enjoying the blog and that it has served you well! We would love to hear feedback, constructive criticism and what you would like to see more of on here. Feel free to leave us comments or emails.

Hope to speak with you all soon,

Janey & Anna.

Soft Smokey Eye

1.) Apply a primer from lash to brow. We used Shadow Insurance by Too Faced. Set with a light shade of eyeshadow, such as Shroom by M.A.C. This is called your Base.

2.) Line above the lashes with a black liner. Smudge upwards with your finger, a Q-Tip, or brush. Set with a dark shade of eyeshadow, such as Carbon by M.A.C.

3.)Using a blender brush, apply a bronze shade from lash line to just above the crease using circular motions.

4.)Using an angle brush, dust the Bronze shade underneath bottom lashes 3/4 of the way inwards. Apply mascara and addition liner on the upper lash (optional).

5.) Use a neutral colour on the lips to make the smokey eye standout. Apply a bronzer to the cheeks, nose, and forehead (where the sun naturally hits your face)

The Beauty of Witch Hazel

The Beauty of Witch Hazel

Witch Hazel s a natural astringent produced from the leaves of the Witch Hazel plant which grows in Eastern Canada. The plant has been used for hundreds of years and has amazing medicial qualities that make it an essential in your medicine cabinet and makeup bag. It can be found at any drug store.

Ways to Use Witch Hazel:

-Keep witch hazel in the fridge at all times. Soak a cotton pad with it and apply to:

sun burns, bug bites, allergic reactions, puffy eyes, black heads, pimples, and bruises

-Soak cotton pads and leave in fridge over night. Apply to puffy eyes for 10 minutes in the morning

-Add apple juice to witch hazel and use it as a toner

(about 1 part apple juice and 3 parts witch hazel)

Under Eye Circles.

Dark circles under your eyes can be caused by an abundance of different factors and most of the time it is not due to lack of sleep or one too many drinks the night before. Illness, allergies, genetics, gluten intolerance, hyperpigmentation etc. can all contribute to raccoon eyes.

Unfortunately there is no magic cure for this issue but there are tricks that can help mask the look of them:

Apply refrigerated witch hazel to a cotton pad and let it sit under your eyes for approximately 10 minutes.

You can also slightly steep two teabags in warm water and apply to your eyes (keep them closed) for about 10 - 15 minutes. The caffeine and tannin in the tea itself will help reduce any swelling and discolouration.

My final suggestion is makeup! It seems like an easy fix but sometimes applying makeup to under eye circles can make them appear darker. The truth is that there is no way to completely hide under eye circles with makeup but it is possible to make them appear less prominent.
When choosing what product to use it is best to keep the formula light in texture. If your concealer is too thick it will begin to look cakey and synthetic.
Apply a thin layer of concealer using a brush (avoid using your fingers as the heat and oils produced by them will break down the product). Once you have finished applying the concealer, set it with a translucent powder - this will help stop creasing half way through the day.

A few products that are great for under the eyes are Amazing Cosmetics Amazing Concealer (found at Sephora), MAC Fast Response Eye Cream and MAC Select Moisturecover.

Anna's Favourite Products

Anna's Favourite Products

Lip:

Mocha Rose Balm by Rosebud Salve (Sephora)

&

Fresh Lipglass in Sugar Baby (Sephora)

&

Revlon Super Lustrous Creme Lipstick in "Just Enough Buff"

Face:

Joe Fresh Bronzer (Superstore)

&

Snow Bunny by Too Faced (Sephora)

&

Benefit Erase Paste

Eyes:

MAC Zoom Lash Mascara

&

Maybelline "the Falsies" Mascara

&

MAC Eyeshadow Pot in "Rice Paper"

&

QUO False Eyelashes (Shoppers Drug Mart)

Body:

Sake Perfume by Fresh (Sephora)

&

Strawberry Body Butter (the Body Shop)

&

Johnson&Johnson Baby Oil

Eyeshadow Effects

When working with any eyeshadow it is important to remember a few things:

• Frosted as well as light coloured shadows will highlight and draw attention.

• Matte as well as dark coloured shadows will recede the area.

• Adding liner to the waterline (the inside rim of the eye) will add a more dramatic look but may shrink the overall look of the eye.

• Always use a paint or primer on the lid before applying shadow to avoid creasing, prolong the wear and to bring out the true colour of the shadow.

• Determine the client's eye shape prior to application to ensure you get the best look possible.

Tending to your skin.

I know it seems like there is a lot on here about skin care and not much about makeup but let's face it - without good skin the overall look of makeup is damaged.

Whether you are applying makeup on yourself or another it is important to determine and assess the skin type. Analyse the skin and ask open ended questions along the way; how does your skin feel by the end of the day? What do you typically use on your skin? How does your skin react to products?

When removing eye makeup be gentle, try to avoid stretching the skin as much as possible. Skin around the eye is extremely delicate and since we don't produce any sebum here, constant tugging and pulling over time will result in lax skin.
Moisten a cotton pad or grab a wipe and with the eye closed begin to sweep in a down and outward motion (gently holding the skin above the eye will help). Once the makeup has begun to break down fold the wipe or cotton pad in half, have the client look up and sweep any excess makeup toward to nose. Repeat this step if needed using a clean wipe or pad until all makeup is removed.

Cleansing the skin is (in my opinion) one of the most important steps in skin care (next to moisturizing) since it will remove any dirt and residue. Use warm water to open the pores and apply a dime size amount of cleanser to wash the face (make sure to do this in an upward and circular motion), then rinse using cool or lukewarm water. If the water is too hot or too cold it can cause broken capillaries and never use soap on your face as it is too harsh on the skin.
As noted in an earlier blog - washing once a day is all that's necessary. Before bed, preferably.

After cleansing, tone the skin (only if you feel necessary). Toners will balance the pH of skin and tighten the pores but if you rinsed your cleanser off with cool water this will have a similar effect. Apply using a cotton pad.

Moisturize - no matter what your skin type! Moisturizer will seal the skin with hydration and balance out the acid mantel (pH of skin - yes, it is slightly more acidic). Makeup application becomes so much easier and smoother with this step. Apply the necessary amount in down and outward motions to avoid clogging the pores.

SPF! If you don't use this in your skin care regimen, start! Always check for allergies before applying as some people are sensitive to the ingredients used.
Why not try a more natural form of SPF? Check out Lush, Planet Organic or Community Natural Foods.

Mature Skin

Less is more.

When working on mature skin it is important to keep things simple.
As we age our skin becomes thinner, pigmentation becomes deficient and we tend to get a little more wrinkled. While these changes are organic and unavoidable, learning proper techniques to enhance features on mature skin are fundamental.

Always start with a primer before applying any foundation to the face.
Primer is like double sided tape - it creates a layer between the makeup and your skin but also prolongs the wear. Best of both worlds!
When choosing the proper foundation it is important to investigate the skin type but equally important to examine if you will need to go half a shade to a full shade darker for your colour choice. This will add vibrancy. Apply foundation using a brush or sponge in downward motions going with the natural growth of the hair (you may need to warm up the foundation slightly prior to application for an easier administration). Keep it light! Heavy coverage will only accentuate lines.

Conceal where needed.
I prefer to conceal after foundation. If you apply concealer before foundation you will only end up wiping it away - ever wonder why you can't cover those stubborn pimples no matter how much concealer you use? This is why.

Set foundation using a translucent powder.
My favorite tool for this is a big fluffy brush but some may prefer a velour puff. To each it's own.

Now we shall move onto the eyes...

Starting with an eye paint, primer or magnet (preferably without a sheen), sweep a thin layer over each lid. This prevents creasing and evens out the tone.
When choosing your shadows try and stick with matte, subtle shades. Sweep the lightest shade over the entire lid all the way up to the brow. Using a medium-dark shade begin to define the crease (the 224 brush from MAC works great for this). After you have defined the crease, take a darker shade and begin to blend from the lash line outwards.
Occasionally eyes will develop a "hood" which makes the crease hard to find - create one! Carefully and slowly blend over top of this "hood" where a natural crease would be using your medium shade.

If you want to add eyeliner do this tastefully. Some people prefer liquid but I tend to go straight for a pencil, setting it with a darker shadow to avoid smudging.

Now for the finishing touches.
Add a natural shade of blush to the apples of the cheeks pulling it just a touch toward the temples. Do this sparingly; we don't want any 80's racer stripes.
Define the lips and add a creamy or matte lipstick. Avoid anything with a frost. Please.
If you are worried about the lipstick bleeding; conceal and powder the lips before application. Or just invest in a lip primer.

10 Commandments

The 10 Skin Commandments

Ladies, treat yourself in 2011 and take care of your skin. Below are the 10 Commandments to beautify your skin inside and out.

1.) Drink Water

You've probably heard it a million times, but drinking H20 is more beneficial than just quenching your thirst. It hydrates skin from the inside out! Be sure to drink 6-8 glasses a day.

2.) Wear Sunscreen

Even during the winter months, harmful UV Rays can still penetrate skin. Choose a daily moisturizer with at least spf 15.

3.) ALWAYS Wash Makeup Off Before Bed

While your body is recharging during sleep, it is also regenerating your outer layer of skin. Wearing makeup to bed doesn't allow your skin to breathe properly, causing clogged pores. Make a promise to yourself that no matter how late you get home, you will always wash and moisturize before bed.

4.) Exfoliate Once a Week

It's important to exfoliate once a week; no more, no less. Exfoliating helps to remove dull, dead skin. Overdoing it can lead to irritation and inflamed skin. Be sure to pick a scrub that is not too harsh, but abrasive enough to leave skin feeling smooth.

5.) Eat a Healthy Diet

Our skin is the largest organ and is a direct reflection of what's going on with our health. By eating healthy foods, we can have a positive impact on how our skin appears. Healthy fats such as Salmon, Almonds, and Avocado are rich in Omega-3 fatty acids, and are super-foods for glowing skin.

6.) Go Easy on the Alcohol & Cigarettes

Alcohol is a diuretic, and therefore dehydrates you. Try to minimize alcoholic intake to 2-3 glasses per week. If you're planning on having more, be sure to always have a glass of water with you, and drink as much of it as you are of your beverage. If you find yourself feeling under the weather the next morning, be sure to continue drinking water. Chicken stock and bananas are also quick hangover cures as they replace the sodium and potassium you lost from constant trips to the bathroom (constant urinating...hopefully not the alternative). Lastly, I'm not going to name all the reasons why you shouldn't smoke. Just don't do it.

7.) Wash Once a Day

Over-washing can irritate the skin. Make sure to wash your face once a day with an appropriate cleanser for your skintype. Otherwise, rinse with refreshing cold water. If you find your skin gets oily throughout the day, consider using a primer in the morning, a moisturizer that works with oily skin, and some blotting papers.

8.) Dry Lips

During the dry winter months, it is imperative to keep lips moisturized. Apply a lip balm first thing in the morning, and continue applying when necessary throughout the day. Use a product that isn't sticky, and has [at least] spf 15. Another tip is to once a week take your toothbrush, wet the tip and GENTLY scrub lips to remove dead skin. Apply lip balm immediately after.

9.) Leave That Zit Alone

I know, they are nasty little suckers, but we are all human and all breakout occasionally. Be sure not to pick or pop as it may leave scaring on the delicate middle layer of your skin. Always keep a spoon in your freezer to apply to a pimple to calm the redness. Lastly, apply a moisturizer or a concealer with 0.5% salicylic acid to the culprit.

10.) A Day of Rest

It's important to give skin a breather, so pick one day a week that you can allow your skin some breathing time. No foundation, concealer, mascara, or gloss. Just moisturizer and lip balm. Even if it's just for a morning or afternoon, giving your skin a break is a great, beneficial idea.